Maybe it's growing up near the beach, maybe it's the influence of friends, or maybe it's some internal cosmic rhythm, but I think I will always feel a connection to the water.
The last line "I surf because I'm always a better person when I come in" made me smile in the biggest, goofiest way. I am the world's most horrific surfer, so it's not exactly about that. It is about other things - my painting, creating, writing, music... that make me, within myself, feel like I'm a better person because of the experience and joy that they bring to my spirit.
Thank you Andy Irons, where ever you may be.
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